Japanese Whetstones Available in Australia
A sharp knife is not a luxury.
It is the basic condition a knife should be in.
The difference between a dull edge and a working one
is not technique. It is knowing which stone to use — and when.
Understanding Grit
Coarse / 荒砥 #120–#400 Removes material fast. For chipped edges or resetting a bevel. Most cooks rarely need this.
Medium / 中砥 #800–#2000 The main sharpening stone. Where most sessions begin and end.
Finishing / 仕上砥 #3000+ Refines the edge after the medium stone. Removes the wire burr. Brings out the polish.
Coarse
Shapton Kuromaku #220
I reach for this stone rarely.
Only when a blade has a chip that a medium stone cannot resolve,
or when I need to reset the bevel from scratch.
It cuts fast. That is the point — and the risk.
Medium
Shapton Kuromaku #1000
If you buy one stone, buy this one.
Splash-and-go — no soaking required.
Works on carbon steel, stainless, single and double bevel.
This is the stone I use most.
For a slightly finer medium progression,
the Kuromaku #1500 bridges the gap before finishing.
Finishing
Suehiro CERAX #3000
Shapton Kuromaku #5000
For everyday kitchen knives, CERAX #3000 is where you can stop.
It leaves a working edge with enough bite for most cutting tasks.
For carbon steel or single-bevel knives, continue to the Shapton #5000.
At this grit, you are no longer sharpening. You are refining.
#3000 Knives & Stones AU →
Strop
Suehiro KSW-310
After the finishing stone: the strop.
Leather with green compound.
Removes the last trace of the wire edge.
This is the step most people skip.
It is the step that makes the difference.
Oni-Giri Blade
A knife worth sharpening.
Every knife we carry comes with a free sharpening service for the first year.
Because a knife that stays sharp is a knife worth owning.
Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, a small commission supports this site — at no cost to you. I only recommend tools I own and use myself.
